Southern Spain (and Germany and Gibraltar) 9/2022

Summary

Travel dates: 9/1-9/12 (we try to travel around this time each year, as it is off-peak time, most kids are back in school, the weather is usually more tolerable, and there is also Labor day (free day off built-in). Plus, we have our anniversary during that window, so it works out nicely.

Days: 10 full (2 travel days)

Miles driven: 2811

Miles walked: approximately 80 miles for Jenn, a tad less for Josh.

Countries visited: 3 (2 planned, 1 accidental)

Cities visited:11+

Sites visited: Too many to list!

Day One. Travel day (9/1-9/2) We had the prettiest Uber driver, who was prompt (Whitney). First off, screw Lufthansa for deciding to have a strike on the one day we needed them to fly our one non-United flight. We made reservations through United and the single leg from Munich to Madrid was canceled due to the pilot strike. That gave us a full day to explore Munich. Lemons into lemonade. It took us a very frustrating almost 3 hours to find the train after hunting for a bus that I’m convinced was not even a thing. We hit the ground running when we finally got to our hotel and then the train into the downtown area of Munich. Thanks to Marriot for having a hotel everywhere we want to go. We used points to offset the cost we weren’t getting refunded in Madrid. Back to our day in Germany. So. Many. Gorgeous. Churches! So many beautiful things to see and do. Let’s stop for a sec and remind everyone that Munich has delicious beer, brats, and beautiful people. We enjoyed the day exploring a new country (that wasn’t even on our list for this trip) and taking in a few sights. We enjoyed everything German: beer, brats, merriment. Soon after, we headed back to our hotel to prep for an early flight. We enjoyed a complimentary beer at the hotel, showered, and were asleep before the lights even went out. That’s how you make the best of what could have been a full day of sitting in the airport.

Day Two. Another travel day, albeit much shorter. (Saturday 9/3) Wakeup call at 350am. Damn, that’s early! I was convinced we needed an Uber, but Josh wanted to use public transportation. So off to the train we went. Let’s pause here and mention, that neither Josh nor I speak German. We hopped on the early, first train out. We made it to two stops and noticed the few people on the train with us and moved to the opposite train. No English notification, only German. So, at this point, I noticed our train slowly departed and an older gentleman from the opposite train motioned “no more.” That’s when we got stuck on the train, alone, and the engineer just walked off like it was no big deal. Cue the crushing anxiety of “are we going to miss our flight?!?” Sometimes I’m right, and this time I was. After about 10 min, the train slowly returned to the platform, and the doors opened. After a few deep breaths, we went up to the street level and called for an Uber. We made it without issue to the airport and had a very nice driver (especially at 430am). He even took us on part of the autobahn that had zero speed restrictions. Nothing like taking an Uber and hitting 105mph on the way to the airport. Overall impression of Munich… as a city, pretty neat. As a traveler, their signage at the airport and public transportation needs a little help for those of us that don’t speak German. Our airport and flight experience were not memorable, exactly what we like, non-eventful flights. We successfully made it to Madrid and figured out their public transportation system pretty quickly (thanks for the good signage, Spain!) We went to our hotel, checked in, and off we went to see the sights! The first stop was heading into the main section of town. Trains and buses in Spain were cake compared to Germany. We rode the train to town and from there walked to the Crystal Palace. This place and its grounds were huge. Very picturesque! We walked through the botanical garden and then headed to find some sustenance. Delicious and fresh pastrami sandwiches were what we went with – zero regrets! We learned that many museums have free time or days. If y’all know me at all, you know I’m a sucker for free shit. We had about an hour to kill, and Josh wanted to see the naval museum. So that’s exactly what we did – which didn’t hurt since it’s across the street from the museum I chose for the day. Here we saw the first known map that has North America on it. Neat-O! Now it was time for the museum – Reina Sophia. This place was enormous, and they gave you no map. Here I got to see one of the World’s masterpieces- Picasso’s Guernica. WOW. We perused the gallery for an hour or so, seeing many more timeless pieces. We finished the day with more tapas and quickly crashed after returning to our hotel. Hotel for the night: Hotel Illunion. Fairly good-sized room, small balcony with minimal view, overall, a solid 7. It was close to public transportation and in a safe area of town. The rooms were clean. AC worked well. The bed was comfortable.

Day Three (Sunday 9/4). Today we slept in (8 am) since we were where we needed to be and had no travel or flights to catch. We deserved the extra sleep after the first two days of craziness. We grabbed a cafe con leche and headed back out to the airport to grab our rental car for the remainder of the trip. By now, we knew what bus to take and where it went. Great success! Knowing that parking is free on Sunday, we drove back to the city center and found a parking spot. We re-upped our bus cards and used buses to save our feet (and knees/hips/everything else – we’re old). We attempted to go to the national library museum, but we were informed it was closed. Boo! Google failed us! We headed to our next stop – the Thyssen-Bornemisza museum. This museum has a free day, but it didn’t coincide with our travel days, so we paid to get in. This museum was in my opinion the best collection of the 3 art museums we went to in Madrid. They gave you a map and allowed pics (the other two no photos were allowed – but if you know me, you already know I “illegally” snapped a few shots 😂 I can’t help myself and Josh makes a great shield). Again, amazing to view all of these masterpieces, in person, and up close. After taking in all the great works of art, we headed to Plaza Mayor – the old city town square. One of the things I found in all my research on Spain was you don’t miss the chocolate sauce and churros from San Giles (been around since 1894). This place cranks out the orders! The chocolate was so rich, however, that didn’t stop folks around us from drinking the cup of decadent chocolate. From here we were so full and needed to walk a bit. We headed to the final stop of the day – a long line of waiting to get free admission into the Prado Museum. This one was advertised as one of the best collections in the world. They weren’t wrong, but we had seen so much in the other two museums we spent about 45 min hunting for just a few pieces that we wanted to see. “Charron Crossing the Styx” was a great piece to see in person (for obvious reasons). We also got to see the “black series” by Goya. These pieces we all created near the end of Goya’s life, and wow we’re some of them were very disturbing. It’s definitely something to take in, especially in person. Saturn eating his son was something else. By now, it was late in the day and time to head to the hotel to prep for the next day’s travel. A few cocktails on the patio while we unwind and prep for the next day. Even with the sidetrack in Germany, we got in as much of Madrid as we felt necessary. In a short time in the city, we hit 3 major art museums, filled with many priceless masterpieces from Picasso, Dali, Kandinsky, Van Gogh, Ruben, Monet, Renoir, Rembrandt and so many more. My art heart was so happy! Churches, tapas, amazing food, art museums galore, and tons of walking (roughly 20 miles in 1.5 days). It was time to sleep and hit the road!

Day Four (Monday 9/5 – Labor Day at home) Today we depart Madrid and head Southeast to Murcia (roughly a 4-hour drive). About an hour outside of Madrid, we stopped at a cute little café on our way, since we both needed caffeine, and one of us (not Josh) was suffering from a hangover. Café Toledo in some small town off the beaten path was refreshing and delicious! From there we enjoyed a short walk around town, grabbing pics of multiple murals around town. Then we headed up the mountain or hill, to see about the Don Quixote windmills. So cool! From there, we continued our drive to Murcia. Our next stop was at Calle las Lavanderas (pink lake). At first, it didn’t appear very pink, until we got closer to the water. The water is very salty and pink because of algae. There were many people swimming or more so, floating. The sodium makes everything super buoyant. The pink lake up against a bright blue sky created quite a striking contrast. After the lake, we finally made our way into Murcia. By now we were starving and I married a man from Wisconsin… we found a very well-reviewed quesaria (cheese shop) called La Lechera de Burdeos and ended up basically having a private tasting! A glass of red wine each and 5 different kinds of cheese (turned into 7 because our cheese guide was awesome!) All of them were local cheeses and every single one of them was amazing for their own individual reasons. After we departed the cheese shop it was a short walk to the center of the old town where we found the Murcia Cathedral. They were having mass, but we walked around anyway (we came back when the mass was over). This place was incredible! The cathedral has a choir chamber that has 75 intricately carved seats in the center of the church. It has an amazing organ and many prayer rooms/dedication rooms (not sure what they’re actually called) that are on the sides of the cathedral indoors. Each was decorated over the top for whatever saint it was to represent. As we were walking around the old town area we kept seeing loads of people dressed up in what appeared to be LARP attire. We decided to follow a few of them and see what kind of trouble we could find. Lo and behold we stumbled into a hugely historic festival: Moors and Christians. This was wild. The pride these folks have for their culture and history is awe-inspiring. There was a very sexy policia officer that I approached and asked what time the festivities started: 815. We decided to hang out for a bit and watch the parade. Josh forgot the nice camera in the car, so he ran back to get it while I waited behind, keeping a close eye on my officer friend 😂. Let me just say this festival was amazing. Watching all of the people in the parade and their joy for their culture was really un. This kind of thing is the stuff that Josh and I love. We love randomly stumbling into these types of activities. So. Much. Fun! After the parade, we walked through their food festival – too bad we had eaten all that cheese! There was no room for anything more in our bellies. After all that, we found our way to the hotel and took a much-needed shower. Did I mention it’s hot and humid AF in Murcia?!? We hit the hotel bar for a nightcap and off to slumber we went.

Day Five (Tuesday 9/6). Up and at ‘em early to head towards Granada for the day. We stopped at a cute little roadside cafè that sees a LOT of business. Their simple breakfast sandwich (sub-style toasted bread, topped with EVOO and freshly sliced ham. So yummy! Then it was on the road for our first stop in Almeria at the cathedral (y’all see a pattern yet?) That place was massive and very ornate! I can’t say that I’ve ever seen so much marble in my life. A quick stop to look at the pier and a few snaps with #BuddytheBadger at the ocean and we were on our way. In case you are unaware, there is a certain level of nerd that we have to maintain on our trips. We always find something incredibly nerdy that most people would say “why do you even know that?” to go do on every trip. This trip is no different. We had a quick stop in a tiny town called Almerimar, which happens to hold the world’s largest greenhouse-covered area. This area grows approximately 40% of the world’s tomatoes 🍅 and other fruits and veggies. The sight from elevation is nothing but a sea of white and off-white textile mesh. Absolutely striking from above: Miles and miles of greenhouses. We cruised along the miles of greenhouses and popped off on a side road to see if we could figure out what was inside. We found one and as soon as I opened the door to step out and snap a picture, I knew what it was: peppers 🌶. The most beautiful pepper plants were filling the greenhouse. After our minor detour, we headed down to a small coastal town (Almuñècar) for some kayaking in the Alboran Sea (part of the Mediterranean Sea). One of us kayaked topless (hint, it wasn’t Josh). When in Rome, do as the Romans do, or in our case, when in Spain, do as the Spanish do. We’re all about embracing the culture of where we visit. The water was a deep shade of blue and clear and the waves weren’t rolling too hard. The scenery was breathtaking. The water was a tad chilly but refreshing when little water droplets fell from the paddle. Kayaking is one of the activities we try to do on each vacation because it’s calming, offers a different perspective, and is relatively inexpensive. We played in the rolling waves taking in the view and relaxing for 2 hours. When we were done, we changed out of our swimsuits and hit a little cocktail hut on the beach. We both had sangria. Let me tell you this, sangria made fresh in Spain is so much better than that trash we try to pull off in the states. We sipped our delightful beverage and Josh chowed down on our tapas of olives and garlic (super common to have a tapa given when you have a cocktail. Since the topography of Spain is covered in olives, garlic, and other veggies, olives are the most common item given. We packed up and hit the road for our hotel in Grenada for the night. Upon arrival at the hotel, we were both salty and sweaty from kayaking and very much looking forward to the rooftop pool. At check-in, we learned that the “laundry services” in the hotel ad were really dry-cleaning services, but more on that in a minute. We raced to our room, changed back into our swimsuits, and headed up the rooftop pool… Man was that disappointing and comical. The dang pool was as wide as Josh is tall and about double that in length. It was no joke 2.5” deep. That’s not a pool, that’s a bathtub! Anywho, it did offer great panoramic views of the city and a wonderful sunset. The pool was cold but refreshing. We stayed for just a short time. Now, back to laundry drama. Over the last few trips, we’ve decided for the 10+ day trips, we pack for half of that and do laundry along the way (pro tip for traveling with only carry-on luggage). However, each time we’ve done this, there has been some kind of kink. In Finland, we could not figure out how to make the washer work – I know, even the engineer couldn’t figure it out – and we ended up being up til 3 am waiting for our laundry to be done). This trip offers more of a fitness aspect. I found a laundromat near our hotel, and 1/2 a block from the tapas restaurant we were going to for dinner. The thing is, the laundromat closes at 10. It was 915 when we arrived. We had to figure out how to make the machine work, started the wash, and then walk down the street for dinner and drinks. I set a timer for when I needed to be back to flip the wash to the dryer. I walked to the laundromat when the timer said it would be ready – the machine said, “7 min remains.” Ummm, what the hell?!? It’s now 944. I still need to dry. I impatiently wait for these 7 eternal minutes to finish so I can flip the clothes into the dryer. 7 min = 12 min in Spain’s laundromats 🤷‍♀️I set the dryer and sprint down the block back to the restaurant where I had abandoned Josh (don’t worry, he was happy with tapas and a G&T). I chug my beer and grab a snack for my run back. It’s now 957pm. After the train locked us in, I’m a bit skittish about being locked in. I throw a laundry bin in the doorway to avoid it closing. I swear that 5 mins were the longest of my life! I did notice that they had multiple cameras in the facility, so I kindly wave at them and say 👋. The dryer finally finishes, and I quickly folded the damp clothes, so they didn’t wrinkle. I stuff it in our bags and motioned to the camera “goodbye.” I walked out and 15 seconds later the gate falls and the lights go off: that was a close one! I head back to the restaurant and finally get to enjoy my tapas and beer. Another wild laundry ride. One day, we will get it right, but not today. We finish up at the restaurant and headed back to the room, laundry in tow. We lay our damp clothes out to dry while we do some research for the next day. Good thing they were mostly dry because it was late, and we needed sleep.

Day Six (Wednesday 9/7) – Today we head to Malaga for the night but have 2 huge activities for the day before we depart: the Alhambra and Sierra Nevada National Park. A stupid early morning with little sleep, (anything, before 7 am on vacation, is bs, but a sacrifice I’m willing to make to see everything we want while I’m here – I’ll sleep on the plane or when I’m dead) but worth it to get in on the first round of tickets to the Alhambra. Look it up, you’ll understand why we wanted the earliest time they had. Josh had secured free street parking the night before, which is super slim pickings pretty much everywhere. We didn’t want to sacrifice that, and we weren’t sure about parking at the Alhambra, so we decided on the city bus. 2 buses and we were dropped off right at the entrance gate (super early, but hey, we made it!) The gate opened at 755am, and we went in to wait in line for the Nasir Palace, which requires timed entry tickets with limited availability. The line situation was interesting and filled with folks from all walks of life. The few we interacted with were quite pleasant. About 10 min before our entry time, this couple walks in front of Josh and fails to notice or care that we were already waiting. Whatever, there’s plenty of space for us all. Kill them with kindness, right? Wrong. These A-holes jumped in front of the prime photo spots, and we had to wait. Again, whatever. Every picture they took, ended with a make-out session. Like no joke, 3 min make-out after every fucking photo. Get the hell out of here and go get a room. Ridiculous. Back to the Alhambra… this place is MASSIVE! So many palaces, gardens, quarters, churches, and more. The intricacies of the detail in every inch of the grounds are astounding! You’ll see the pictures, don’t worry! The name, Alhambra, derives from Arabic al-qala’a al-hamra (the Red Castle). The timeframe of the structures is unclear still. It has been debated that they are from the 9th century, but many say they’ve been around since the Romans. Its current form is from the 13th and 14th centuries. Its roots run deep like the history of the Moors and Christians. So much to see and do, and so thankful we went as early as possible before the droves of tour buses arrived (the absolute bain of my existence). When we left (about 1130am) we had walked over 4 miles! Next stop, a cafè for some lunch! Now let’s see some more sights in Granada before we head to Malaga for the night. We stopped at two exquisite churches that were very different from each other in all the greatest ways. First was the Royal Chapel of Granada. Here is where Isabel and Ferdinand are entombed. They didn’t allow photos, but y’all know I don’t listen too well and was able to snake a few. Marble for days, high arches, elaborate golden embellishments, and a tomb. On the giant altar at the front of the church is a dude’s head cut off and being held by someone else. That’s wicked. Enough on this one. On to the Basilica de San Juan de Dios. This place was the most over-the-top church I have ever laid my eyes on. There wasn’t a square inch of it that didn’t have at least one layer of some kind of decor or adornment. There was a lot to unpack as we walked around: golden embellishments, velvet runners, marble tops, balconies, tombs, hand-painted ceilings that rival that of the Sistine Chapel, silver candelabras, carved wooden doors and ceilings, and much more. I could go on and on over the amount of time and effort this place took. It was time to bid Granada adios. The next stop is the Sierra Nevada National Park. WOW. That’s all I can say. The sweeping views of mountains from every side were absolutely gorgeous. While we were cruising around, we saw what we thought were BMW pre-production test vehicles climbing the roads and hitting turns at speeds and general testing of the vehicle’s capabilities. You know, the shit Josh would love to do for a living. There was a total of 7 of these beauts out there. We also saw two Aston Martins – Possibly the DBS. Such sexy vehicles. As we hit the top of the climb in the mountains, we saw a herd of sheep and goats with quite possibly the laziest herding dog watching over them as he slept 😂 There were so many of them just hanging out, waiting for their shepherd to return. We enjoyed the amazing from the top for a bit before heading down. Now think about this; my husband saw all the pre-production test vehicles, the Aston Martins, and these amazing curvy roads… what do you think happened next?!? You got it, we raced our little Citroën C4 rental down the mountain. You could say we cooked the brakes by the time we got to the bottom of the mountain since there was quite a burning/melting smell. Meh, it’s a rental 😂 and Josh loved every second! I swear he’d be a rally racer if work didn’t get in the way. Sadly it was time to leave the mountains for the day and head to our quaint little Airbnb for the next two days. We arrived at Finca Fenix at 645pm. Our lovely hosts, Mark and his husband Kim were waiting for our arrival, as Mark was headed to the airport at 730pm. What a cute little place! Set off the main road in Alora, a suburb of Malaga, we had a two-bedroom apartment and full run of the grounds, including a pool, gym, gardens, something ridiculous like 7 patios, laundry facilities, 3 cats, and a dog (cat, #1, #2, and Honor, respectively). I always miss our pups when we travel so this was a welcome crew. They were all so sweet. Obviously, the dog and I became instant Besties! Mark and I are definitely kindred spirits – high energy, always on 100% go, love for people and animals alike, etc. I just met him, but instantly had a connection like we’d been old friends. I was sad to learn that they will be selling Finca Fenix soon due to Kim having had a stroke late last year. He’s in a good spot, but that property requires a lot of upkeep and with only Mark able to do the work, it’s just too much for one person. Hell, it’s too much for a crew of 10! I’m so glad we got to stay there though. The rooms weren’t the best of the stay, but the location, amenities, kindness of the hosts, and overall appeal of the package, made it perfect for us. We wanted to enjoy the fruits of the property, but the bugs were really bad. We decided it was time for a shower and to find dinner nearby. We chose a quaint little back-alley place (pretty typical of European countries). It sounded like a great idea… I have learned with my severe allergy to tomatoes (anaphylactic reaction) that I start all meals with the old “if you feed me raw tomatoes I will die at your table” (translated into whatever language is needed – God bless Google translate!) This meal was no different. The waiter seemed to understand. I ordered a beautiful tapa to start with tuna and avocado. I took two bites and discovered there were RAW TOMATOES in it! Cue the mental breakdown and panic. Guess who had their epi-pen in the car about 1/2 a mile away? I was in full-blown panic mode! I watched my heart rate skyrocket and was not really thinking clearly. Josh was about to have to sprint to the car, come back, and stab me in the leg, on the eve before our anniversary. All the wild thoughts flash through my head: am I about to fucking die in Spain?!? God bless this man I married! He leveled me out. He kept me calm in my meltdown, although I know he was freaking out too. Good thing I only had two bites, and the amount of tomato inside was small, plus I consumed enough alcohol to kill off any issue (maybe, I’m not a doctor). Good lord that was close. I did finish my main course while monitoring my symptoms, although it made it less enjoyable since I wasn’t sure if it was my death was pending or not. About 20 min later I was back to my normal self. A tad itchy, but when we got to the car, I scarfed some chewable Benadryl and life was good. We went back to the rental and enjoyed a nightcap (and a Xanax for me – since anxiety was at an all-time high), and quickly went to slumberville.

Day Seven (Thursday 9/8 – our wedding anniversary) Up around 745am. We grabbed our sunscreen and a quick stop at another roadside cafè, then we head to our meeting point. I’ll pause here and backtrack a second. A few days ago, we were discussing the main activities we had done and what was left and realized then that the main thing we both wanted to do required tickets. How did we miss that?!? We looked and learned that tickets sell out months in advance. Now we were both disappointed since we were so excited to do this one activity. After a momentary freakout, I looked at tours (which we loathe) as an option, and behold, they had availability when we needed it. However, it was a bit over double the price. We said screw it, let’s do it, and paid the expense. Ok, back to where we were. We arrive at La Gargantuan hotel for pick up and a meeting with our group. We were going to get to hike the Caminito del Rey (King’s Path)! We took a short bus ride (3km) to the closest access point to the trailhead and started our tour. I asked the tour guide if we had to stay with the group or if we could just do our thing and wait until the end. They informed me that once we got through the gate, we were free to do as we please. Hooray! The hike is roughly 3.3 miles and let me tell you the sweeping views of the canyon walls and river below are things you dream of or see in the movies. Incredible! Did I mention that this hike takes you through the El Chorro gorge on a walking platform that is 100m above the Rio Guadalhorce, snaking around cliffs affording the most incredible, breathtaking views at every turn? Because holy shit, what a memorable experience to celebrate year 6! A tad bit of history on the Caminito del Rey… The path had become so run down by the mid- 1990s, it was deemed as one of the most unsafe hikes in the world! Whaaaat?!? In 2000 the path was officially closed, yet some crazy canyoners still hiked it, ending in multiple deaths. A $5.5 million dollar restoration project began in the mid-2000s, and the path was officially reopened in 2015. It is now one of the most visited places in Andalusia. The hike was easy, which was nice so we could really enjoy those views. The cool breeze aided the warmth of the sun, making the full experience even more enjoyable. I could go on and on about how amazing this was, but you’ll see pictures. Just know that if you’re ever in the area, do yourself a favor and book the tickets. You will not regret it. Total time, including check-in, bus, and bathroom line (who the hell only puts 3 toilets at the last place before the hike begins when you have a ton of people coming in every day?!?) about 4 hours. Now it’s 130pm and we need food. I told Josh at the beginning of the trip I would require a meal with wine and sweeping views… he didn’t disappoint with his choice of Carpe Diem in El Burgo. The restaurant sits nestled in the hills of a newly established national park (formerly a natural park) and another national park. The views were amazing, and the food was just as great! That combined with the authenticity and generosity of the host, Liam (an Irishman – yes, they had Guinness on draft!) and his husband, Juan (the chef, who is a local from just one town over) were really what completed the full experience. It was interesting to learn they just took over the restaurant about 9 months ago. These fellas know what they’re doing. They provide delicious food, and a bit is a cultural tour of Andalusia through food. They had just started their daily menu that day, so we were in for a treat! One of the things they pride themselves on is using local and fresh products in the food. Did I mention the red wine with views for days?!? Our meal consisted of an appetizer, main course, dessert, and one beverage. I started with a creamy fish soup that had potatoes, prawns, white fish, mayonnaise (yep, you read that right!), and onions. Damn, it was delicious! Josh started with a Russian potato salad that had white fish mixed in and topped with peppers and onions. Also, very delicious! Both were served with Irish soda bread. From here, Josh and I had identical meals. Our main course was a chicken thigh with a chimichurri sauce and fresh-cut steak fries. Again, absolutely delicious! We finished the meal with an authentic tapioca pudding, that Josh said was quite possibly the best he’s ever had. At this point, we are the only ones there. We had the entire terrace to ourselves. We didn’t have a rush to be anywhere, except with each other, and we weren’t ready to end our experience. So, I ordered so Limoncello for us. When I went inside, I made sure to tell Liam how amazing our experience had been. He hollered for Juan to come out so I could complement his work directly. What a genuinely nice couple. I took our limoncello out and we enjoyed the last of the views. We asked for the bill, and we’re shocked… $38 for all of that. Josh went in to also compliment the meal and ambiance. He also wanted to thank them for the limoncello that they didn’t charge us for. Again, Liam asked Juan to come out and chat. Juan is a tall individual, so he was happy to see another tall gentleman. We chatted for a bit, thanked them for a perfect meal, wished them success and prosperity, and told them we’d be looking for when they get that Michelin star ⭐️ Just before departing, Juan informed us of a local swimming hole, not 2kms up the road. Hell yes! This is the exact stuff we live for. We said our goodbyes and off we went! If you are ever in Malaga or nearby, do yourself a favor and stop into Carpe Diem in El Burgo for a meal. You will not be disappointed! We drove down to the walking path to the trail to the swimming hole. Please note we did not bring swimsuits with us. Oh well, boxers for Josh and sports bra and shorts for me. We arrived to find only a few locals sunbathing and swimming. We found a nice little spot and claimed it as ours. The water was cold, but after the short hike there, and a little acclimating, the water and scenery were exactly what we were wanting. The cold water refreshed our tired muscles (did I mention we’ve walked/hiked more than 50 miles at this point in the trip?) We swam and lounged for a bit, but the sun was going down and the water was cold. We packed up and headed back to our cute little rental to celebrate “us” for the remainder of the evening. What a wonderful day, start to finish, and a great way to welcome year six of our marriage ♥️

Day Eight (Friday 9/9) – Today we slept in. There was nothing to rush off to, so we enjoyed the rest. We packed up all of our stuff, said goodbye to the puppy and cats, and we were off towards Gibraltar, but first a stop for brunch. I choose a place called “Wild.” It was a quick decision based on 500 reviews giving it a 4.8 out of 5.0. Kind of like buying a home, sight unseen. Turns out, it was a hodgepodge of a few types of meat, vegan, gluten-free, hippie fest type place. There were a few really great-looking options, but I was sold with figs and goat cheese on seedy toast. So good! A quick jaunt down to the beach from where we parked so we could see the sea. Now it was time for Gibraltar. We’re just over here collecting stamps in the passport! The small autonomous region of Great Britain the day after the Queen passes… we have impeccable timing! Gibraltar isn’t much larger than 4 miles long and maybe 2.5 miles wide, but there is a fuckton of cars, yet minimal parking. We crossed the border effortlessly and managed to find free street parking. Winning! The clouds rolling in from Northern Africa over the Strait of Gibraltar were wickedly cool! They were very low and moving quickly, creating quite the scene. We stopped at the Europa Lighthouse, which wasn’t open but gave a perfect spot to grab some pics. Just in front of the lighthouse is a beautiful and striking mosque (The Ibrahim-al-Ibrahim Mosque). They were having prayers and I wasn’t appropriately dressed to attempt to go in (I try to respect cultures and religious practices when and where I can). So, we hopped back in the car and drove around for a bit. We attempted to find the route up the mountain, but being that it’s an autonomous region of England, our SIM card for Spain didn’t work and we didn’t download offline maps, which made it very difficult. Instead, we found parking in the town area (after a few loops around the city 😂) Now if you’ve met Josh, you know when we dine out, we look for quality restaurants with good reviews. Typically, the minimum rating is 4.5 ⭐️. Finding a place like that without Wi-Fi was an event, however, we found a place with unlocked Wi-Fi and decided, we’re in a British area, we should go to a pub. So that’s what we did. The food was ok, nothing like yesterday’s meal. Then it was time to head to our hotel in the mountains near Cadiz. Our hotel for the evening is at a golf course in the mountains. Swankyyyy! 🙂

Day Nine (Saturday 9/10) – Another leisurely morning and today our hotel had breakfast included. We enjoyed the sunshine while eating breakfast and filling up with coffee. We packed up and off we go to hit Cadiz and then off to the capital, Seville. On our drive out, we saw a billboard and then a van for go-karting. That was all it took for my rally race-loving husband to make a slight detour to the track. He raced for 10 min and I enjoyed a larger while I watched and grabbed pictures. He got the clunker kart, but still had a fun time riding around. The smile was all that was needed to know the small detour was well worth it. Next up was a short stop in a tiny fishing town to see what we think was called “one thousand anchors.” An obvious name for what we saw, but there was no reasoning as to why they were all there. Still interesting to see in person. The morning brought thick fog, so we weren’t able to get the greatest pictures, but enough to get the idea. From there, we took the scenic drive (because when given the opportunity, you always take the scenic route) up the coastline into Cadiz. We stopped at a local beach on our way to see what it was all about. Rolling waves of blue and many people out soaking up what would eventually turn into sun rays but were only clouds at this point. We continued up the coast where we met our next stop: Castillo de Santa Catalina. This old fort/bastion/castle was free entry and contained a historical museum, church, and a few other things. It also offered wonderful views of the ocean blue! We strolled around, enjoying the views and history, but mostly stretching our legs. After we finished, it was time to head to Seville, the capital, for the remainder of the day. We decided to head straight to the hotel to drop off our stuff and change for our evening of fun. We drove to where the metro picks up and ditched the car. In our world travels, we’ve learned to use public transportation if we’re headed into a congested city. Seville was no different. So glad we did that! This is the one day I put on makeup, fixed my hair (up in a braid because fuck it’s hot here 104°F!), and wore a nice shirt. I don’t always look like a scrub on vacation, I promise 😂 Our first stop was the only absolute must-do for Seville: The Cathedral of Seville. It’s said that one of the tombs inside the church holds none other than Christopher Columbus. We were disappointed because we thought the church closed at 530 and it was 615. But then I saw people going in… they took the last admission at 630pm, and we had time to go inside! Woot! With admission, you also gain access to the La Giralda tower. Of course, this meant a hike up to the top and back. Bless my husband for thinking there might be an elevator 😂 No honey, the ancient church did not put in an elevator for weary-legged travelers to use. Up we went, roughly 12 flights of stairs, to see the view up top. Hot and sweaty we arrived at the top. This church is so massive (how massive is it Jenn?!?) so massive that I had to grab pictures up top to get the entire thing in 3 shots. MASSIVE! We were short on time and wanted to see everything (feels like I say this every vacation – never enough time to see and do everything. Can I retire yet?). We enjoyed the view and then headed back down to see the cathedral and tomb. We’ve seen so many churches and other religious establishments on this trip and others, but nothing quite like this one. I’m not even sure where to start. The time of day lent itself to our aid- the golden hour. The sun hit the stained glass at the perfect angle to send beautiful rays of color through the window and into the church. Columbus’ tomb was neat, complete with a statue and mausoleum. There was also some of Isabel and Ferdinand’s royal attire (robes). The altars were so intricately carved and colored. So much detail! The choir was the largest I’ve seen, with so much carving detail from top to bottom and a double organ that was also gigantic. Sadly, I wish we had more time to explore, but we’ve gotten used to exploring at a mucho rapido pace, we did what we could with the time we had. A ten-minute walk from the cathedral to our next stop, Setes de Seville. A large piece of working art in the center area of town. Lovingly called “the Mushroom” due to its shape, rivals the same kind of response as “cloud gate” gets in Chicago. In daylight, it looks like a bamboo mushroom and at night it lights up and the colors dance all over the surface. You know we went back at night to see it in full form! We popped into a local record store (full happy mode) but there wasn’t much that I could see I wanted, and we didn’t have the time for me to play long. Still fun to stop in. We were disappointed to learn that the many flamenco shows had already begun or were too far away for us to get to in time, and we still hadn’t eaten. My stomach always wins, so we went to find our selected spot for dinner, which was closed more than two hours early! Rude. We debated other places and settled on the closest place, with the best ratings, that had tapas and paella. Usually, this place requires a reservation, but somehow, we slid right in, with the stipulation we were gone by 10 pm, as they had a reservation for it then. No problemo! I got one tapa, a repeat of the Iberian pork cheek, I tried the night I almost died. I usually don’t repeat things, but I was a tad distracted the evening I tried them before, with imminent death looming and all. I also got a cut of local steak that came with peppers, onions, and potatoes. Josh finally got his paella 🥘. Josh really enjoyed that long-awaited plate of ocean trash can. Me, not as much, but I figured I wouldn’t love it since I don’t like any of the seafood that’s in it. Throw random fish in a soup and I’m your gal. My steak was amazing! I’m pretty sure it only had salt for seasoning and that was all it needed. We finished our meal, paid, and we were gone by 950, with 10 min to spare! From there we headed back to the mushroom for the night lights. We popped into an ice cream shop for a scoop in a cone each (tangerine for me, and white chocolate cookie for Josh) I always choose the better of the two – we both agree. As we’re walking these two young girls on scooters roll through, bombed out of their minds. One of the girls disappears down a side street/alley. We figured she was going home… nope. She was squatting, facing the main street! Everything hanging out and she didn’t GAF 😂 Now I think I’ve seen just about everything! We finished our walk, caught the lights, then headed back to the train, to the hotel, to shower, and to slumber.

Day Ten (Sunday 9/11 – our final full day in Spain) – No rush to our morning again, but we did need to hit the road by 9 am to get to our Arab spa appointment at noon in Cordoba. I hadn’t noticed until I awoke this morning the date and coincidence of going to an Arab spa on 9/11. It feels weird, even 21 years later. That is even crazy, 9/11 is old enough to drink legally now. Mind-blowing. Today is a long drive day with only one thing on the list other than getting to the hotel in Toledo (about 1hr south of Madrid). We slept in a bit and departed around 845am, heading north. Our “oooooh shiny” kicked in as we came up on a solar tower. Until this morning, I had never heard of such a thing. Solar farm, sure thing. Solar power tower never heard of her. Good thing I always get some kind of off-the-wall science lesson from Josh when we travel. This was nothing different. (I married a brilliant man that knows a LOT about a LOT! He’s the one who knew about the giant greenhouse coverage from earlier in the trip. Bonus for me all around). There are like 10 of these in the world and my husband knew EXACTLY what it was with just a quick glance. #nerdlife #nerdwife Anywho, we found a road that brought us right up to a side street by the tower. Here we met a ranger or employee of the solar plant that informed us that if we got too close or stayed too long, they may shoot. Now that said, this was a loose translation of body movements (gun shooting). He did say if it was just to take a few pics we’d be fine, but if we stayed too long, they may shoot 😳These solar power towers generate enough electricity for an entire town. The short version of what happens: a bunch of mirrors (called heliostats) on the ground (2,650 to be exact) is strategically pointed at this tower’s focal point, and the sun rays bounce off the mirrors into the collector which then heats salt until it becomes liquid in the tower, now the molten salt moves into the plant, where the molten salt then creates steam that turns a turbine which then powers a generator that creates electricity. It’s basically a sun ray – mirror – collector – salt – steam – turbine – generator – power lines. It’s basically like a gigantic mirror protruding from the Earth roughly 140 meters (459’). This one solar power tower generates enough electricity for 25,000 homes. Impressive! More info for those nerdy friends out there can be found here: https://www.power-technology.com/projects/gemasolar-concentrated-solar-power/#:~:text=The%20tower%20is%20140m%20tall,stores%20the%20salts%20at%20565%C2%BAC. That’s your science lesson for today. You’re welcome! Now it was time to head to Cordoba for our long-awaited Arab spa appointment. Yaaaaalll! This experience was amazing and pretty inexpensive for what we got. I really wanted the package of 30 min massage and 1-hour bath circuit, but it wasn’t available during our available times, so we went with the 90 min bath circuit only. No regrets. When we arrived, we were given little non-slip footies for our shoes- safety first! We had many attendants assist our journey through the spa. The first gave us the footies and washed our hands in our choice of essential oils than water (rose, amber, lavender, and orange blossom). From there it was to the changing rooms where we rinsed before entering the spa. Then another attendant showed us around the circuit and explained the proper way to use the baths. The bath circuit consists of tepid water, hot water, cold water, a steam room, and hot tea. Rinse and repeat until your time is up. The spa is serene, calming, and dimly lit, and all are asked to be silent as they move about the baths. The decor was also minimal but fitting. Holy cow did our bodies NEED this! I feel like we’ve walked 100+ miles on this trip, and maybe we had. All I know is this is the best way to relax before our long travel day tomorrow. We made 3 complete rotations of the circuit before our time was up. Now it was time to cleanse and head to lunch if we could walk. My legs were like jello! Pro tip: if you can partake in an Arab spa, don’t think about it, just do it. I assure you that you won’t regret it. Our time cost roughly $.33 a minute. That’s a bargain! Plus, can you really put a price on serenity and calmness? If you can, it’s about $35 euro for 90 minutes. Josh chose a delightful tapas restaurant for lunch where we enjoyed multiple local specialties – Mazamorra with Pedro Ximénez jelly (almond milk, bread, and a smidge of cream emulsified to create a smooth, creamy texture. Topped with the jelly and almonds. So good and shocking), Cordoba cheeses (4) with orange marmalade, Mozarabic meatballs in almond and saffron sauce, Andalusian chicken with basmati rice, pumpkin and raisins, Confit cod loin on Cordovan ratatouille, Tuna in mojito sauce with mango and capers, and Cordovan salmorejo emulsified with olive oil, ham, and egg. Holy shit, how am I not as big as a house?!? Josh had local beers and I started with a glass of red wine, then moved to sangria. All that paired with the relaxing spa experience… can I get a cot in a back room to nap on, please? We finished up and walked back to the car to grab the camera and go to the mosque-cathedral of Cordoba. We got in line and learned you had to buy tickets online, and it was $18 euro – quite expensive if you ask us. That added with it being the end of the trip, and the day’s experiences so far, so we decided to pack it up and head to Toledo, our home for our final night. After a three-hour drive, we arrived at our cute little abode. A cute little hotel with 4 floors and 28 rooms that lies inside the old town, next to a castle. How cool! Our room is smaller but has a bunch of old charm (wooden beams, a small balcony that looks out over the street, a castle view, and moderate decor). This will definitely do for our last night! We dropped our stuff off and went to move the car. The downside to staying inside the old town walls is no parking, but it’s Sunday, and street parking is free til 10 am tomorrow when we will already be at the airport. So, we drove down a bit and then back up, on the hunt for a spot. Easy peasy and not too far from the hotel. In the morning, we’ll just go grab the car and then load up right out front. By now we’ve parked and started the walk back – but with the exploration of the old town. You know we gotta get those 10k+ steps in to end our vacation 😂 We went up, and up, and up some more, until we could see cathedrals and castle tops. We cruised around a bit, at a leisurely pace, just taking it all in. By now, it’s 815pm, we’re tired, sweaty, a tad hungry, and all around ready to head home (both hotel and back to Oklahoma). We decide to have a simple meal at a highly rated restaurant in the old town. Hummus and pita bread for the win! It was so good and easy. We basically licked the plate before we gave it back. Oh, and we finished with a piece of baklava each to cap off the meal. We left there and hit a small market for a bottle of sparkling wine and tropical juice – swanky room mimosas were on deck for our packing excursion. The rest of the night was spent sipping, packing, and getting ready for a long day filled with travel.

Day Eleven (Monday 9/12 – travel day) Up early to drive an hour to Madrid. The signage around the airport is not great, which only added frustration. We got into the airport and through security and customs rather quickly. We had time to grab some snacks and coffee and then loaded up for the long-haul home. We got to Dulles early and decided to try and hop on an earlier flight home, even though the seats weren’t the greatest. We were able to accomplish this, and the flight wasn’t terrible. Now, we’ve landed in Denver and our connection is slightly delayed due to waiting on the crew. Another delay. Still waiting on the crew. 20 min passed, and now our crew has arrived. 10 more minutes and now we can load up! We get situated, have the safety brief and then the pilot opens the door and says “we have a maintenance issue that we’ve tried to resolve via phone, but need more assistance. Maintenance is coming on board.” 10 min go by. Another announcement “we need more time to fix the plane, and everyone will need to de-board.” Of course! End of the trip there is always a delay. I just want to get to my bed! We exit the plane, grab our luggage, and head back into the terminal to wait for a new, not broken plane. At this point, all Josh and I have eaten is airplane or airport food for the extremely long day that just won’t end. I decide to get us a sandwich to split with a bag of chips each and a soda to split. Quite possibly one of the best decisions I’ve made in a while. Another announcement. We have a plane, and our crew won’t time out. 30 min to get the plane to the gate, clean it, and inspect it to ensure no more hiccups. It’s now 750pm and we get to board again. Quick and expeditiously, they fill the plane, and we finally pull away from the gate at 825pm (the flight we switched from earlier in the day departs at 835pm…) we had the best intentions. Funny enough, the original flight we were scheduled to be on, landed 2 min before we did in OKC. The universe had other plans. I feel like I should mention that Tina and Jason have been circling the airport for 3 hours, waiting to scoop us up. Great friends we have! We get scooped up by T&J who have drinks waiting for us and are just genuinely excited to see us. They drop us off, we get in the house, and let the pups out. Boy oh boy, they were excited to see us, and us them. After showers and snuggles, it was time to call it a day. 24 hours awake and working the next morning – a setup no one loves but is necessary. We called it a night at 12:02 am – so I was able to say “Happy Birthday” to the man before we drifted off to dreamland. What a great trip!

Overall, wonderful trip filled with amazing memories, scenery, experiences, sights, and food. Best of all, the time spent away and together is priceless. Everyone always asks, “Best trip yet?” when we return. We chuckle, and reply “no.” We chuckle because it is going to be very difficult to dethrone our New Zealand honeymoon. It has sentimental ties, it was our first long haul trip, we rented our first campervan (some would say this is what started the camper want), it was generally, and epic trip. Iceland gave it a run for it’s money though. Common thread there was a campervan. So, how does Spain rank amongst our travels? It has some tough competition. Pretty amazing trip, I’d rank it high in the middle group. Everyone should see Spain for themselves.

Until the next adventure, get out there and see the world!